Aspiring to go beyond the traditional horizons of watchmaking, an award-winning watch brand Urwerk introduces the UR-105 Raging Gold timepiece. Conceived by Martin Frei, the Swiss brand’s co-founder and designer, the timepiece is his tribute to the noblest of materials, the gold. The UR-105 Raging Gold is nothing less than a shield of red gold carved in a pattern derived from the hobnail motif “Clou de Paris” that was popular in high-class watches.
The UR-105 Raging Gold is based on Urwerk’s signature concept of watchmaking, the wandering hour principle, in which each hour travels in turn across a 60-minute arc. This ancient and more intuitive way of telling the time is made easier by a mask made of PEEK, a semi-crystalline polymer, which hides the hours that have completed their 60-minute patrol. The mask is also superbly decorated in proper traditional style.
This 105 version incorporates the latest developments in Urwerk’s attempt to enhance value to the wandering hour principle. The carousel, the most complex element of the mechanism, carries the hours in groups of three on four satellite discs, is hidden. It silently and unerringly brings the right hour to the right place at the right time. “In our earlier models, the satellites were mounted on Maltese crosses and suspended from the rotating arms. We’ve found a way to improve on this idea. You can feel the result in your fingertips when you set the time. There’s no friction, no jolts, just the dance of the satellites. Our efforts have been absorbed into a much more fluid transmission.” – explains Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk’s co-founder and master watchmaker.
On the back of the UR-105, turbines control the selfwinding system. Switch the lever to FULL and the winding rotor reacts to your slightest movement to wind the mainspring. In the RED (reduced) position, the rotor’s movements are dampened to avoid excessive tension in the mainspring. In the STOP position the selfwinding mechanism is disengaged and the watch can be wound manually with the crown.