H. Moser & Cie. marks the beginning of Geneva Watch Days with the introduction of an updated perpetual calendar movement. Back in 2005, the Swiss luxury watchmaker revolutionized the perpetual calendar with the Perpetual 1. Simple in appearance, this movement simply looks like a caliber with three hands plus the date. This year, H. Moser & Cie. is innovating this famous movement with its instantaneous date change function as a version featuring four central hands and a contemporary look. The $54,900 Streamliner Perpetual Calendar timepiece with new perpetual calendar movement is part of the Streamliner collection.
The hand-wound HMC 812 caliber utilizes the indices to show the months via a small red and white central hand. It has a guaranteed power reserve of 168 hours, displayed at 10 o’clock on the dial via an indicator. Thanks to two superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31, at 4 o’clock, a window can indicate the date in large format. Aligned on the crown, the date window is placed at an unusual angle which required the numerals to be tilted to 26°. The date changes in a flash at midnight thanks to the “Flash Calendar” date-change mechanism, and it can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day. The sapphire case-back reveals the HMC 812 caliber with the traditional Moser double horizontals stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is micro-blasted and features anthracite rhodium plating.
The perfectly rounded Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is equipped with a steel cushion case measuring 42.3 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 12 ATM. decorated with an “M”, its off-center crown is positioned at 4 o’clock. The case is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case-back.
The integrated steel bracelet is curved to follow the line of the wrist. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. All the links feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. The bezel has a sunray brushed finish; the case has alternating brushed and polished surfaces, with hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides.
The red and white outer minute track on the dial measures the movement of the central seconds hand. The seconds hand, the power reserve hand and the months hand evoke those found on the dials of car dashboards or measuring instruments. H. Moser & Cie. has chosen three-dimensional curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, formed of two sections and featuring inserts made from Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material that contains Super-LumiNova®.