Salvatore Ferragamo winter 2021 runway show “Future Positive” has just aired displaying a collection that was inspired by the limitless conceptual freedom of science fiction and the house’s heritage of technical innovation. Creative director Paul Andrew created a bright and youthful collection that offers a new take on tropes of uniform – business, military, evening, sporting – discarding all that is old-fashioned.
In fashion, the past exerts a gravity – we are always drawn to it. For this season I wanted to invert that physics. The objective was to engineer a collection that sees the present through a prism of the future – unleashing a multitude of fresh perspectives. Pre-millennial sci-fi classics Gattaca, Until The End Of The World, and The Matrix were all cinematic influences – past imaginings of the future that have shaped today. For this ‘Future Positive’ collection I imagined the standard contours of today’s uniforms as fossilised remnants of a long-forgotten past, freed of all associations of class, colour or creed. This collection proposes new uniforms for a utopian future in which diversity and positivity combine to transform our world for the better. As Salvatore Ferragamo once said of his own work, this collection is dedicated ‘to all those who must walk’ – at a time when we must be united in our determination to reimagine, rebuild, progress. – Paul Andrew
The show connects the virtual world of our imagination with the real world of Salvatore Ferragamo and begins in a future city that is inspired by New York and is inhabited by real models wearing the new collection. The second part of the runway show moves to the Rotonda della Besana, Salvatore Ferragamo’s real-life fashion show venue in Milan.
Continuing to set the bar high for environmental sustainability in the fashion industry, Salvatore Ferragamo Winter 2021 collection includes styles driven by sensitivity for the health of our environment. There is a dress that is realized in polyester made from post-consumer recycled materials, and footwear soles include wood from certified responsibly managed forestry, recycled pre-consumer TPU rubber and polyurethane and metal-free leather tanned with plant-based materials and through a certified lower environmental impact production process. Selected accessories are made from upcycled pre-consumer offcuts, addressing material waste and avoiding virgin material production. Part of leather has been made with a chrome-free or metal-free tanning process. Sewing threads for part of footwear and leather goods are made from 100% post-consumer certified recycled PET.
Ready-to-wear sees tailoring templates mixed and sequenced with codes taken from militaria, moto, athletics, scuba and beyond. Shirting, mohair knits, footwear and accessories are presented in monochrome against bursts of color. The collection includes capes, coats and parkas in heat-processed leathers and wools, fine gauge technical knitwear, knit bodysuits and dresses patterned in an abstract future camouflage. Utility parkas and casual tailoring, dresses and outerwear strafed with irregular bursts of fringed yarn.
The footwear collection includes space-biker boots, scuba sock sneakers, clogs in rubberised nappa, and a reinterpretation of Ferragamo’s iconic F-heel decorated with rhinestones and a galvanized finish. The bags include the Nano-Trifolio in rubberized nappa and a revolumed, deconstructed Studio bag. A travel bag for men is offered in a futuristic Gancini-embossed leather and features a pocketed utility strap.